Sustainability is the green plate special at Founding Farmers

This past week, I was fortunate enough to get a sneak preview of an exciting new addition to DC's restaurant scene, Founding Farmers, which offers an upscale, yet straightforward take on "green" dining with a heartland slant. Inspired by the fresh bounty of America's family farmers, Chef Graham Duncan cooks up homemade classic American dishes, with a focus on sustainably sourced and locally grown ingredients wherever possible. The sleek, yet casual setting complements the restaurant's commitment to sustainability - the space is LEED-designed, and has been designated a Certified Green Restaurant.

With an expansive menu spanning a wide variety of farm-grown fare, Founding Farmers will satisfy an impressive range of eco-conscious appetites. From Oysters Rockefeller to Farmer's Meatloaf to Maine Lobster Rolls to the Fresh Ground Frisco Burger, the menu winks and nods at a whole host of regional food genres and traditions. It's an aptly representative hodgepodge of American tastes for a restaurant located in the heart of the nation's capital, just blocks from the buildings where politicians and lobbyists debate and vote on legislation like the 2008 Farm Bill, among other things.

Founding Farmers is actually owned by a collective of more than 40,000 American family farmers, often referred to as the North Dakota Farmers Union, a group devoted to the economic and social well-being of farmers, ranchers, and rural communities.  The emphasis on farm-grown ingredients is of particular interest to me, given the battered condition of America's family farms.  Just days before my meal there, I had finished reading "The Omnivore's Dilemma," Michael Pollan's elegant exploration of the contemporary eater's complicated relationship to the food on his or her plate. Pollan examines how our changing food landscape has impacted family farmers, specifically how the rise of fast food has created a demand for the efficient and automated mass production of dextrose and starch products. The consequent industrialization of the planting and harvesting processes has created such a surplus of supply that low corn prices can't support farmers working at a sustainable, human scale.

It's against this backdrop that restaurants like Founding Farmers remind us of the pleasures of slow food versus fast, the value of community (guests can choose to dine at communal tables and share family size portions), and the sheer deliciousness of food that has been handled with a careful human touch. And it is delicious, indeed. My Southern Pan Fried Chicken was a beautiful golden crisp on the outside, and moist and tender inside. Served with a creamy white gravy, and a funnel cake waffle, the dish is a clever riff on a dish with deep roots in America's culinary history, but also conjured up happy memories of the Iowan county and state fairs that dotted the summers of my youth. I can't wait to go back again and try the Bacon Lollis: Nueske's bacon with a glaze of cinnamon and brown sugar. I'm also excited to try dishes like the 17 Vegetable Salad, handmade Ricotta Ravioli, the Prosciutto, Fig, and Mascarpone Flatbread, and the herb-rubbed Pork Tenderloin with a honey apple glaze.

The large, multi-level space (designed by CORE architecture + design), employs playful touches (bird-shaped lighting fixtures, fuschia-colored accents) combined with an urban farmhouse aesthetic where stainless steel fixtures blend seamlessly with handcrafted wood tables. An expansive bar area houses Founding Farmers' innovative bar program, where Bar Chef Jon Arroyo proffers small batch brewery beers and bourbons, organic and biodynamic wines, and 'chef-crafted' cocktails, like The Constituation (a heady combo of Plymouth Gin, chamomile, blueberries, lemon, and ginger liqueur). No green detail is overlooked at Founding Farmers; among the many sustainable touches, menus are printed on recycled paper using soy-based ink, and the interior was painted using low and no-fume paints.

The fantastic food and whimsical decor at Founding Farmers make for a fun experience. So fun, in fact, that it would be easy to dine there without thinking too hard about the people behind the food, without thinking too hard about the plight of our family farmers, and without thinking too hard about what's at stake for our rapidly disintegrating culinary traditions, not to mention (at the risk of sounding pedantic) the health of our bodies and our planet. Perhaps we do fun things like dining out because we want to escape, if only for a couple hours, from our worries, and from a world in which it's exponentially easier to obtain a Big Mac than a health insurance plan. But as restaurants like Founding Farmers hope to remind us, perhaps we shouldn't have to escape at all.

Good to know:
Founding Farmers is located in the International Monetary Fund (IMF) HQ2 building at 1924 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, at the corner of 20th Street and Pennsylvania Ave., NW. It is easily accessible via Farragut West or Foggy Bottom Metro stops on the Orange/Blue lines.

Thanks to Jennifer at SPIN DC for the deconstructed logo image and other assistance with this article.

Above and beyond at Etete

Although I've eaten at many restaurants with polite and efficient service, I have never before felt the urge to hug any servers. Well, not before last night anyway. Last night, I had the pleasure of dining Etete, whose warm and hospitable service was truly unlike anything I have ever experienced. Widely regarded as one of the city's best Ethiopian restaurant's, Etete's focus on creating a welcoming atmosphere was apparent the moment Jason and I stepped inside the restaurant, tucked into an attractively decorated townhouse in the heart of DC's Little Ethiopia neighborhood.

We were greeted immediately by a smiling hostess. I explained that we had made reservations, but that we were meeting a third person who hadn't arrived yet. I expected that we would be asked to wait until "all members of our party" were present and accounted for (as seems to be standard protocol at most places nowadays). However, the hostess cheerfully showed us to a table without a moment's hesitation. As I would soon find out, that gesture was but a hint at the effort Etete's staff makes toward ensuring a unique restaurant experience.

Served on a large circular platter lined with spongy injera bread, Etete's food lives up to the hype. We ordered a vegetable combination platter - potatoes in several different sauces, two spicy lentil dishes, collard greens, corn, and a green salad, all of which were fresher and more flavorful than the ones I've had at other Ethiopian restaurants. We each ordered an entree as well. Jason had Kitfo, minced raw beef seasoned with herbed butter and hot red pepper, and served with seasoned cottage cheese. The beef was a glistening pink and silky on the tongue, in texture akin to tuna tartare, but more deeply flavorful. I was stealthily scooping up bits of it throughout the meal. My Lega Tibs (lamb sauteed with onion and peppers) was equally delicious. Our friend ordered the Yeawaze Tibs, strips of beef sauteed with seasoned butter, fresh tomato, green pepper, onions, and spices.

We were halfway through our meal, when owner Tiwaltenigus Shenegeleg (the restaurant is named for her - "Mama" is "etete" in Amharic) appeared at our table, bearing fresh bowls of the vegetable dishes. Smiling at our grateful amazement, she proceeded to scoop heaping refills onto our platter, and then, noticing our near-empty basket of injera, instructed a server to bring more right away. The surprising touches didn't end there. Nearing the end of our meal, we looked up to see that Mama Shenegeleg was back, this time proffering a tin of roasting coffee beans which she wafted under our noses. The beans smelled amazing, but we were simply too full to partake in the complimentary coffee. The vibe was so relaxed that we lingered for awhile after paying the bill, but never felt rushed to leave. In fact, Mama Shenegeleg returned several more times, even as we sat talking long after we finished our meal, once bearing more coffee and then with freshly-popped popcorn.

The popcorn was a rather offbeat choice for a dessert offering. But then again, Etete is full of surprises. I can't wait to return.

Good to know:
Etete is located at 1942 9th Street, NW. The closest Metro stop is U Street/Cardozo on the Green or Yellow line. Exit the Metro at 10th Street. Etete is on the corner of 9th and U Streets.

Photos of Etete's food and building by Flickr users roboppy and rockcreek respectively.