Thursday, October 9, 2008

Birthday dinner at Citronelle



For my birthday, Jason (the most amazing boyfriend in the world) took me out for an absolutely incredible meal, at DC's famed Citronelle. We decided to go all out, and get the 10-course tasting menu - the Promenade Gourmande - with wine pairings. It was a truly epic experience, and difficult to "review" in a single go, but I want to at least describe the highlights.


PROMENADE GOURMANDE


AMUSE BOUCHE
Egg surprise, escargot crumble, chicken “lollipop” Champagne Francois Billion with “Cuvee de Reserve”, Brut Grand Cru, Chardonnay

The egg surprise referred to the cup in which this dish was served, fashioned from an actual egg shell that had been cut in half. The egg shell was filled with a light-as-air cauliflower foam, silky cubes of salmon tartare, and scallion bits. Escargot crumble was a diminutive glass cup of escargot topped and baked with a buttery sauce and garlicky bread crumbs. The "lollipop" was a toothpick holding the most tender morsel of chicken I've ever tasted, breaded and delicately fried (and more densely flavorful than I knew poultry could be) perched in a tiny puddle of mustardy cream sauce.

VICHYSSOISE “2008”

Michel Richard's updated version of Vichyssoise, a classic French soup, traditionally made with cream, chicken stock, and pureed vegetables. Ours featured an elegant disk of creamy, Parmesan-flavored gelee (almost flan-like in texture), amidst a decadent chicken stock, topped with some kind of crispy chicken-flavored crumbs. The creamy savory deliciousness of that broth had me tilting the plate toward me in a rather inelegant attempt to coax every last drop onto my spoon.

MOSAIC
“Surf & turf” with Sancerre Domaine Roland Tissier 2007

This is, perhaps, the most visually stunning dish I've ever laid eyes on. A flat square-shaped plate is "tiled" with circles of various meat and fish, like tuna, salmon, scallop, beef carpaccio, etc., along with circles of roasted peppers, then drizzled with a basil olive oil and sprinkled with frisee and arugula. It was truly a feast for the eyes, and was every bit as tasty as it looks.

SABLEFISH
Broiled, saké-miso marinated with Riesling Grand Cru “Geisberg” Domaine Kientzler 2004

The simple flavors of this dish were a welcome palate-cleanser after the complexity of the Mosaic. The sweetness of the miso marinade didn't overwhelm the mild fish, and a side of tender baby vegetables provided a hint of bitterness that contrasted nicely with everything else. The Riesling was also quite refreshing at this point in the meal.

LOBSTER BURGER
With Puligny-Montrachet “Sous le Puits,” Premier Cru, Domaine Larue 2003

Tender, creamy chunks of lobster meat in a buttery bun, graced by a small circle of tomato confit (an upscale riff on ketchup). Served with a conical bowl of ethereally crisp potato chips.

SQUAB
Leg confit, foie gras-syrah sauce with Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot” Premier Cru, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2004

Any misgivings I'd had about eating squab were put to rest with this lovely dish. Unbelievably tender and moist, the squab was served with a sweet and tangy syrah sauce, and dotted with petite vegetable globes. Though it lacked the pizazz of the Mosaic or the Amuse Bouche, I think this dish was my favorite for its uncomplicated, earthy flavors.

SELECTION OF IMPORTED CHEESE
With Zinfandel, Turley Wine Cellars “California Old Vines”

My memories are not quite as crystalline at this point (remember, we were doing the menu with wine pairings!), but I do remember something sinfully creamy (I'm guessing it was something like a Brillat-Savarin), and some type of blue/gorgonzola.

STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL
A tiny glass cup of brightly-flavored strawberry gel, studded with chunks of strawberry

KIT CAT BAR
With Banyuls “Heylos,” Domaine Alain Reynaud 2002

Melted chocolate with hazelnut overtones encase crispy stacked layers of Corn Flakes, milk chocolate and peanut butter. As completely amazing as it sounds.

PETITS FOURS
A platter of small, fruit-inspired sweet cakes. See petits fours.

No comments: