Monday, January 12, 2009

Beyond Ben's Chili Bowl: Where Should Obama Eat?


In today's New York Times, Jim Rutenberg looks at the ways in which Barack Obama might influence DC's restaurant scene. I, for one, truly hope he ventures beyond the steakhouses that seem to serve as a constant backdrop for the political elite. Not that there's anything wrong with steakhouses. The steakhouse circuit certainly has its fans, and rightly so, as many serve up very good meat n' potatoes fare (Ray's, I'm looking at you here). But there are some seriously interesting places to dine in this city right now, and Morton's simply doesn't showcase the city's burgeoning culinary talent the way places like Rasika, Oyamel, or Central (to name just a few) do, to say nothing of the many lesser-known, but delicious ethnic restaurants that help to give DC its truly international flavor.

On a related note, the Times' Kim Severson reports that some of DC's top chefs are finding a home in neighborhoods whose demographics don't neccessarily change with each new administration. Severson (or at least, her headline writer) terms these areas "the real DC" (probably inspired by Chef Gillian Clark's quote midway through the article) and goes on to describe the renaissance of restaurant activity in places like U Street, Columbia Heights, H Street NE, etc. I think her point is that these restaurants will primarily serve residents (as opposed to tourists, interns, business travelers, etc.) , many of whom remember when these neighborhoods were complete culinary wastelands because, well, it wasn't that long ago. While it feels a bit awkward to talk about a "real DC" (If I may ask, which parts of DC are fake?) Severson's point is well-taken, and it's definitely worth reading. These types of changes aren't really news to DC residents, but it's nice that the Times is making such an effort to integrate inauguration-related coverage into its Food section.

And now, here are a couple of my own recommendations for Obama. Feel free to add your own in the comments.

For a Liberal Helping of Comfort Food. Established in 2005 by Anas "Andy" Shallal, an Iraqi-American artist, activist and restaurateur, Busboys & Poets quickly became a gathering spot for the neighboring residents and the progressive community, especially activists opposed to the Iraq War. It might not be deep dish, but the Obamas can chow down on The Poet pizza (the name of the pie - along with the name of the restaurant - was inspired by Langston Hughes, who once worked as a busboy at DC's Wardman Park Hotel, prior to gaining recognition as a poet). Busboys & Poets was also at the heart of the spontaneous election night street party that drew crowds of ecstatic revelers to the 14th Street Corridor/U Street area to celebrate Obama's victory. (Link is to photo by Flickr user Skunkgal.)

For power lunches with Secretary of Agriculture, Tom Vilsack. Founding Farmers, the new Farragut West restaurant, is owned by a collective of family farmers, and features a menu of sustainably sourced, farm-fresh ingredients. Though reviews of the restaurant's food and service are mixed, Obama's presence here would be a symbolic gesture towards those calling for radical changes in our nation's food and agricultural policies. Vilsack and Obama could trade soybean lobbyist stories over Heirloom Cheese Puffs and Organic Cucumber Delight cocktails. Such a scene might give hope to champions of sustainable farming practices, many of whom aren't overly enthused about Vilsack's appointment, viewing it as a sign that Obama's administration will take a "business as usual" approach to the food policy.

Miscellaneous:
Breadline, for great sandwiches just down the block from the White House. Palena, for romantic dinners with Michelle. Tacqueria Distrito Federal in Mount Pleasant for the obvious. Etete for out-of-this-world Ethiopian. Homemade donuts at the Tabard Inn. Marvin (pictured above) for beer and mussels with the scenester kids. 2Amy's with Sasha and Malia for the best pizza in DC in a kid-friendly environment. Eastern Market for the market lunch and fresh produce. Omakase at Sushi-Ko (shout out to Aaron C. for inspiring that one).

Photo of DC restaurant Marvin (as in Marvin Gaye) by Richard Perry of the New York Times.

1 comment:

natalie@theliquidmuse.com said...

I think it is cool that Obama visited Ben's, too. Makes me confident that he's a real guy who can relate to real people. A chili dog brings the world together. ;-)

PS - I added you blog to my links list... xo