Beyond Ben's Chili Bowl: Where Should Obama Eat?

In today's New York Times, Jim Rutenberg looks at the ways in which Barack Obama might influence DC's restaurant scene. I, for one, truly hope he ventures beyond the steakhouses that seem to serve as a constant backdrop for the political elite. Not that there's anything wrong with steakhouses. The steakhouse circuit certainly has its fans, and rightly so, as many serve up very good meat n' potatoes fare (Ray's, I'm looking at you here). But there are some seriously interesting places to dine in this city right now, and Morton's simply doesn't showcase the city's burgeoning culinary talent the way places like Rasika, Oyamel, or Central (to name just a few) do, to say nothing of the many lesser-known, but delicious ethnic restaurants that help to give DC its truly international flavor.

On a related note, the Times' Kim Severson reports that some of DC's top chefs are finding a home in neighborhoods whose demographics don't neccessarily change with each new administration. Severson (or at least, her headline writer) terms these areas "the real DC" (probably inspired by Chef Gillian Clark's quote midway through the article) and goes on to describe the renaissance of restaurant activity in places like U Street, Columbia Heights, H Street NE, etc. I think her point is that these restaurants will primarily serve residents (as opposed to tourists, interns, business travelers, etc.) , many of whom remember when these neighborhoods were complete culinary wastelands because, well, it wasn't that long ago. While it feels a bit awkward to talk about a "real DC" (If I may ask, which parts of DC are fake?) Severson's point is well-taken, and it's definitely worth reading. These types of changes aren't really news to DC residents, but it's nice that the Times is making such an effort to integrate inauguration-related coverage into its Food section.

And now, here are a couple of my own recommendations for Obama. Feel free to add your own in the comments.

For a Liberal Helping of Comfort Food. Established in 2005 by Anas "Andy" Shallal, an Iraqi-American artist, activist and restaurateur, Busboys & Poets quickly became a gathering spot for the neighboring residents and the progressive community, especially activists opposed to the Iraq War. It might not be deep dish, but the Obamas can chow down on The Poet pizza (the name of the pie - along with the name of the restaurant - was inspired by Langston Hughes, who once worked as a busboy at DC's Wardman Park Hotel, prior to gaining recognition as a poet). Busboys & Poets was also at the heart of the spontaneous election night street party that drew crowds of ecstatic revelers to the 14th Street Corridor/U Street area to celebrate Obama's victory. (Link is to photo by Flickr user Skunkgal.)

For power lunches with Secretary of Agriculture, Tom Vilsack. Founding Farmers, the new Farragut West restaurant, is owned by a collective of family farmers, and features a menu of sustainably sourced, farm-fresh ingredients. Though reviews of the restaurant's food and service are mixed, Obama's presence here would be a symbolic gesture towards those calling for radical changes in our nation's food and agricultural policies. Vilsack and Obama could trade soybean lobbyist stories over Heirloom Cheese Puffs and Organic Cucumber Delight cocktails. Such a scene might give hope to champions of sustainable farming practices, many of whom aren't overly enthused about Vilsack's appointment, viewing it as a sign that Obama's administration will take a "business as usual" approach to the food policy.

Miscellaneous:
Breadline, for great sandwiches just down the block from the White House. Palena, for romantic dinners with Michelle. Tacqueria Distrito Federal in Mount Pleasant for the obvious. Etete for out-of-this-world Ethiopian. Homemade donuts at the Tabard Inn. Marvin (pictured above) for beer and mussels with the scenester kids. 2Amy's with Sasha and Malia for the best pizza in DC in a kid-friendly environment. Eastern Market for the market lunch and fresh produce. Omakase at Sushi-Ko (shout out to Aaron C. for inspiring that one).

Photo of DC restaurant Marvin (as in Marvin Gaye) by Richard Perry of the New York Times.

Sustainability is the green plate special at Founding Farmers

This past week, I was fortunate enough to get a sneak preview of an exciting new addition to DC's restaurant scene, Founding Farmers, which offers an upscale, yet straightforward take on "green" dining with a heartland slant. Inspired by the fresh bounty of America's family farmers, Chef Graham Duncan cooks up homemade classic American dishes, with a focus on sustainably sourced and locally grown ingredients wherever possible. The sleek, yet casual setting complements the restaurant's commitment to sustainability - the space is LEED-designed, and has been designated a Certified Green Restaurant.

With an expansive menu spanning a wide variety of farm-grown fare, Founding Farmers will satisfy an impressive range of eco-conscious appetites. From Oysters Rockefeller to Farmer's Meatloaf to Maine Lobster Rolls to the Fresh Ground Frisco Burger, the menu winks and nods at a whole host of regional food genres and traditions. It's an aptly representative hodgepodge of American tastes for a restaurant located in the heart of the nation's capital, just blocks from the buildings where politicians and lobbyists debate and vote on legislation like the 2008 Farm Bill, among other things.

Founding Farmers is actually owned by a collective of more than 40,000 American family farmers, often referred to as the North Dakota Farmers Union, a group devoted to the economic and social well-being of farmers, ranchers, and rural communities.  The emphasis on farm-grown ingredients is of particular interest to me, given the battered condition of America's family farms.  Just days before my meal there, I had finished reading "The Omnivore's Dilemma," Michael Pollan's elegant exploration of the contemporary eater's complicated relationship to the food on his or her plate. Pollan examines how our changing food landscape has impacted family farmers, specifically how the rise of fast food has created a demand for the efficient and automated mass production of dextrose and starch products. The consequent industrialization of the planting and harvesting processes has created such a surplus of supply that low corn prices can't support farmers working at a sustainable, human scale.

It's against this backdrop that restaurants like Founding Farmers remind us of the pleasures of slow food versus fast, the value of community (guests can choose to dine at communal tables and share family size portions), and the sheer deliciousness of food that has been handled with a careful human touch. And it is delicious, indeed. My Southern Pan Fried Chicken was a beautiful golden crisp on the outside, and moist and tender inside. Served with a creamy white gravy, and a funnel cake waffle, the dish is a clever riff on a dish with deep roots in America's culinary history, but also conjured up happy memories of the Iowan county and state fairs that dotted the summers of my youth. I can't wait to go back again and try the Bacon Lollis: Nueske's bacon with a glaze of cinnamon and brown sugar. I'm also excited to try dishes like the 17 Vegetable Salad, handmade Ricotta Ravioli, the Prosciutto, Fig, and Mascarpone Flatbread, and the herb-rubbed Pork Tenderloin with a honey apple glaze.

The large, multi-level space (designed by CORE architecture + design), employs playful touches (bird-shaped lighting fixtures, fuschia-colored accents) combined with an urban farmhouse aesthetic where stainless steel fixtures blend seamlessly with handcrafted wood tables. An expansive bar area houses Founding Farmers' innovative bar program, where Bar Chef Jon Arroyo proffers small batch brewery beers and bourbons, organic and biodynamic wines, and 'chef-crafted' cocktails, like The Constituation (a heady combo of Plymouth Gin, chamomile, blueberries, lemon, and ginger liqueur). No green detail is overlooked at Founding Farmers; among the many sustainable touches, menus are printed on recycled paper using soy-based ink, and the interior was painted using low and no-fume paints.

The fantastic food and whimsical decor at Founding Farmers make for a fun experience. So fun, in fact, that it would be easy to dine there without thinking too hard about the people behind the food, without thinking too hard about the plight of our family farmers, and without thinking too hard about what's at stake for our rapidly disintegrating culinary traditions, not to mention (at the risk of sounding pedantic) the health of our bodies and our planet. Perhaps we do fun things like dining out because we want to escape, if only for a couple hours, from our worries, and from a world in which it's exponentially easier to obtain a Big Mac than a health insurance plan. But as restaurants like Founding Farmers hope to remind us, perhaps we shouldn't have to escape at all.

Good to know:
Founding Farmers is located in the International Monetary Fund (IMF) HQ2 building at 1924 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, at the corner of 20th Street and Pennsylvania Ave., NW. It is easily accessible via Farragut West or Foggy Bottom Metro stops on the Orange/Blue lines.

Thanks to Jennifer at SPIN DC for the deconstructed logo image and other assistance with this article.