Much ado about Mandu

I must apologize for the lack of posting as of late. Between holiday festivities and other going-ons, I've not had much spare time.

This past weekend, Jason and I decided to check out Mandu, a little Korean joint just east of Dupont. (I was originally going to cook dinner for him, since he had just gotten back from Japan, but being so busy, I hadn't had a chance to procure any groceries.) Anyhow, I'm kinda glad I flaked out on the cooking thing, because the delicious Mandu is now officially my new go-to place when I don't have the energy to cook, but am craving a super flavorful meal in a homey setting.

The word "mandu" is actually Korean for "dumpling," so naturally we started the meal with an order of these - the steamed shrimp variety, to be precise. Now I don't know about you, but I take dumplings fairly seriously. In my experience, a really good dumpling is deceptively difficult to come by. Many varieties fall victim to a too-thick and doughy wrapping, which, despite whatever tasty filling may lie inside, has approximately the same appeal of a mouthful of steamed and salted Elmer's glue. Othertimes, the wrapping might be fine, but the filling itself disappoints, usually because it's been overcooked and has morphed into a tough little pebble, so that when you bite through the wrapping, you're rewarded with only a faint hissing noise as the shrunken mystery pellet topples out of the wrapping and onto your lap. I'm not sure whether this is worse, however, than the undercooked dumpling, whose gummy brown innards carry bear an unfortunate resemblance to cheap cat food.

So, a dumpling can fail in any number of ways, which is why it's all the more remarkable to find a great one, even at a restaurant named for said item. Mandu's dumplings fit the bill. With a crisp, yet delicate skin and a nicely-seasoned, perfectly cooked filling, Mandu's mandu were a definite du. The best part was that the dumplings were wrapped in such a way that there were lots of little nooks and crannies to better sop up the addictive ginger soy sauce with scallions.

For the main course, I was in a soup kind of mood, and the Soon Doobu was sounding like the perfect way to ward off the December chill. Billed on the menu as a "spicy seafood stew with soft tofu," the soup came out of the kitchen still bubbling and gurgling in a hot stone bowl. With a fiery red-hot broth that set my mouth ablaze, the overall effect was somehow still soothing, the salinity of the clams, squid, and shrimp mixing with the creamy bits of tofu, creating a prickly, but pleasant, warming sensation throughout my whole body.

Jason ordered the Dolsot Bibim Bap, a hearty rice bowl with assorted vegetables, beef and a fried egg, with a spicy bean paste on the side. I was so enamored with my own soup that I managed only a bite of beef from Jason's dish. The meat was tender and almost sweet, redolent of fragrant cloves and possibly anise. A glass of the Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier blend was the perfect foil to such spicy food.

Good to know:
Mandu is located at 1805 18th Street, NW. It's a fairly quick walk from the Dupont Circle metro stop on the Red line. From the circle, walk north on 19th Street, then take a right on S Street. It'll be about a block down, on the corner of S and 18th. The atmosphere is casual. Good for dates or quiet dinners with friends.

Photo of Bibim Bap by Flickr user vincentgallegos.

Photo of Mandu by Flickr user brownpau.

Full Circa

Last night, Jason and I wandered around the Kalorama neighborhood for a bit, taking pictures of the mansions and embassies as the sun was setting.  Having worked up a little appetite, we made our way down Connecticut Ave. in the direction of the circle, to see if anything caught our fancy for dinner.  I found myself mildly interested in Sette Osteria, but there seemed to be a bit of a crowd waiting to be seated, so we ventured onward.  To my surprise, Dupont's new-ish bistro, Circa, didn't seem overly crowded, and to my further surprise, we were able to score a table on the patio, no problem.

Since it seemed like a sort of neighborhood wine bar/bistro place, I decided wine was the way to go, and ordered a glass of Chilean Malbec, which was quite good (and, as I would soon find out, its sharpness was a nice contract to the cheesy doughiness of pizza I would order).  Jason got a formidable-looking cocktail called The Ultimate Mojito.  

Circa's got a nice little cocktail list and a good wine list, but I must admit, I was mildly disappointed by the food menu.  I guess, given the sophisticated palates of the surrounding clientele, I was expecting it to be a little bit more inventive, and it just seemed very...pedestrian.  Crab cakes, mac & cheese, bistro steak, etc.  Ah well, I suppose t'is better to do simpler things and do them well than to take on too much. They also probably get a lot of tourists walking in because of the location, and I suppose a really exotic menu might not do much to lure in casual passers-by.

In any case, I'd heard good things about the pizza, so I ordered the Capriciosso pizza - ricotta, mozzarella, parmesan, mushroom, basil, and prosciutto.  The pizza was pretty good, despite showing no signs of the aforementioned basil.  In spite of my Chicagoan connections, I prefer thinner crust pizza, and Circa's was slightly thick for my liking.  Hard to go wrong with prosciutto and lots of cheese though, so I did a pretty good number on it.  Jason got the Free Range Chicken pizza, with sundried tomatoes, artichokes, chicken, mozzarella, and basil.  I swiped a piece, and it was decent, though the sweetness of the tomatoes verged on cloying for me.  

Service was sort of meh.  I got the impression that our server was trying to emulate the understatedness of servers in really haute cuisine types of joints, but the end result was just sort of awkward.  Think lots of weird silences and halted, barely audible responses.  Overall, though, it's a fine place to grab a casual meal, if you're not expecting much in the way of culinary revelation.  I think I'll have to give it a couple more tries to see if we caught it on sort of a blah night.  

Good to know:

Circa is located at 1601 Connecticut Avenue, NW, practically right across the street from the Dupont Circle Metro stop on the Red Line.  Just exit on the North side, and cross Connecticut as if you're going to Kramerbooks, but hang a quick left on Connecticut instead.  It's right on the corner.

The atmosphere is super casual and anything goes.  There were families in shorts, tee-shirts, and tennis shoes, and there were glitterati in sparkly dresses and strappy heels and both fit right in.

Photos by Flickr user M.V. Jantzen, who takes great photos of DC.  Check out his stuff sometime.

Why I Love It

Republic of Tea Blackberry Sage tea, organic spring mixed greens, whole wheat pitas (to stuff with various items and bring for lunch), red onions, chicken breast (to marinate and bake with cloves of garlic and white wine), Cherry Glen chevre (to spread on sandwiches or toss on salads), roasted marinated tomatoes, assorted olives from the olive bar, smoked salmon (on my morning toast, or in a salad with capers and red onion), garlic and herb spread, fresh mixed berries, New Zealand lamb loin chops (to crust with the rosemary I'm growing and pan sautee), parmesan and garlic pita chips, green onions, cucumbers, lemons, avocados (for salads, sandwiches, and fresh guacomole), whole wheat bagels, organic basil (goes on everything), thyme, whole wheat pasta, assorted heirloom tomatoes, poached mussels (to toss with olive oil, garlic, and pasta), a French baguette, marinated artichoke hearts, fresh shrimp, Campo de Montalban cheese, organic chives, peanut butter granola bars (for mornings when I don't have time to eat something real), capers, tuna packed in oil, cans of San Marzano tomatoes (to make homemade pasta sauce), Little Penguin Australian Pinot Noir, and whole dried figs.

The Best Gallery in Dupont

Having spent my child and young adult-hood in small-town Iowa, I have had a fondness for farmers' markets for as long as I can remember. I have distinct memories of sunny Saturdays spent wandering the Iowa City Farmers Market, which was held in a parking lot across from the public library. On those Saturdays, the lot was filled with vendors from across the state, offering a brilliant array of fruits, vegetables, eggs, cheese, jams, and flowers, often sold out of the back of the farmers' own pick-up trucks. My mother would lead me and my sister up and down the loosely arranged aisles, the gleaming displays of farm-state bounty nearly eye-level to our kid statures. I carefully observed the jewel-like glimmer of pink raspberries, the gleam of shiny, overripe tomatoes, the elegance of corn cobs hidden away in their smooth green husks. It was an aesthetic experience, and I was always far less concerned with actually procuring these items than with simply observing their loveliness.

This reverence for the "farmers' gallery" stays with me still, apparently, as I found myself nearly paralyzed with appreciation at the Dupont FRESHFARM Market yesterday. With $45 in my pocket, I could've filled several bags full of buffalo jerky, feta de Provence, or lush salad greens, and yet, I found myself simply wandering the stalls, stopping to admire the way the midday light illuminated a cluster of basil plants, smiling at a child's squeal of delight upon discovering the display of live Maryland crabs. It was enough to just be there. More than enough.

I returned home with a renewed sense of abundance and three apples, two Fuji and a Braeburn. I ate the Braeburn on the walk home. It was really, really good.

Photo of Dupont FRESHFARM market tomatoes by Flickr user M.V. Jantzen.
Photo of Dupont FRESHFARM Savoy cabbage by Flickr user Josporte.

Hot food for a cold day

Oenophile that I am, I've been super excited to check out DC's newest addition to the wine bar craze, Cork, and had made plans to go after work yesterday. Few things can compete with my mildly obsessive interest in chronicling the best this city has to offer in the way of wine flights, cheese selections, and charcuterie. (See previous post on Dupont's Veritas). As if I needed further incentive, Cork's menu boasts a pretty decent selection of entrees (or what they call "hot plates"), and dishes like Red-Wine Braised Lamb with pomegranate, radicchio, and spinach beckon.

But yesterday, it was cold. And windy. And to be completely honest, I just didn't feel like trekking across town for my dinner, delicious as it might've been. So, although few things can compete with wine and cheese, fabulous Indian food is most definitely one of those things, specifically the elegant fare turned out by Heritage India in Dupont Circle.

So we turned our wind-burned cheeks to the north and braved the nasty weather for the couple blocks between my office and the restaurant, the promise of warm naan and spicy curries sustaining us through the chill.

Once inside Heritage's uniquely decorated dining room (think soothing peach tones, low lighting, and a giant bronze Buddha statue), we settled into a table for two and ordered drinks (a SoCo Sour for Jason, and a Maharani cocktail for me - made of peach schnapps, orange juice, Grey Goose, and white sparkling wine.) With the drinks warming our cheeks, we turned to the menu, which is a rather intriguing mix of contemporary Indian tapas-style dishes (like grilled Tandoori mozzarella, tomato, and basil), and more traditional offerings like kabobs and curries.

We started with an order of pleasantly salty Garlic Naan, and from there, I ordered the Chicken Tikka Masala, and Jason went with the Lamb Vindaloo. The chicken was unbelievably tender, accented by the tang of the creamy and spicy masala sauce. And lo and behold, Jason's Vindaloo was sufficiently fiery, which is a victory in and of itself. I can also vouch for the Tandoori Chicken, marinated in a savory tomato-yoghurt sauce, which I enjoyed during a previous visit to the restaurant.

Our server (who was attentive without being overbearing, by the way) brought us dessert menus, but there simply wasn't room. It was that good.

Good to know: Heritage India is located at 1337 Connecticut Ave, almost directly across from the South entrance of the Dupont Circle Metro on the Red Line.

Photo of Heritage India's Saag Paneer by Flickr user Il Primo Uomo.

Zorba's Cafe: Hellas good

When I studied abroad in Greece, I was completely enthralled by not only the friendly people and unspeakably gorgeous countryside, but also the bright and savory flavors of Greek food. I still dream about the lamb gyros from the street vendor in the the Plaka, a neighborhood in Athens, near the apartment where I stayed. The thing about Greek food (and much Mediterranean cuisine, actually) is that it needn't be complicated to be good. In fact, most often, the simplest dishes are the best.

And when I'm feeling nostalgic for the simple pleasures of taverna-style food, nothing satisies my craving like Zorba's Cafe. The Dupont Circle establishment that serves up excellent renditions of classic Greek dishes like Mousaka, Souvlaki, Pastitsio, and of course, Gyros, as well as awesome hummus and - my favorite - tzatziki.

So when my sister and Megan were in town visiting me, and we wanted a quick yet satisfying bite to eat, Zorba's was a no-brainer. I ordered the Gyro Plate (or Yero Plate, as it's spelled on the menu) - marinated sliced beef and lamb on pita bread, a Greek salad, and french fries. My sister got the Fasolia Plakee, which is white beans cooked with tomatoes, onions, and herbs, and Megan ordered the Kefte Kebabs (Mediterranean meatballs).

It was an unseasonably warm night, so we took our food out to Zorba's patio to people watch on 20th Street while we ate. (Zorba's doesn't do table service. You just order food at the counter and then can either dine in or take it to go.)

The food was simple and delicious. The service was friendly, the vibe relaxed. It's not the Plaka, but it's about as close as it gets here in the District.

Good to know:
Zorba's Cafe is located at 1612 20th Street, NW, pretty much across the street from the north entrance of the Dupont Circle Metro Stop on the Red Line.

Photo of Zorba's Cafe by Flickr user Skippy13.

Loungin' around.

You've probably walked right past it without realizing it, perhaps on your way to one of the flashier establishments on that stretch of Connecticut Avenue, like 1223 or Sesto Senso. While the aforementioned certainly have their place and time (like, um, Saturday nights junior year of college, for example), I'll take the unassuming coziness of Eighteenth Street Lounge any day.

Owned by Eric Hilton and Rob Garza (better known as the DC-based production and DJ Duo, Thievery Corporation), Eighteenth Street Lounge (or ESL, as it's known to the DC's cognoscenti) boasts no clue of its existence from the exterior of its three-story townhouse-style building. Look, instead, for the neon blue Mattress Discounters sign, and take the door immediately to its left, which leads you up a creaky, dimly-lit staircase and into this renovated mansion-cum-lounge (Teddy Roosevelt once lived here), which is lushly decorated in warm tones, comfy couches, and working fireplaces. Move toward the front of the lounge, and you'll be hard-pressed to miss the stunning view of Connecticut Ave.

As one might expect, given the lounge's owners, ESL is known for its predilection for some pretty sweet tunes. A heady stream of lounge music wafts from a back room, and most of the time, there's a live DJ spinning beats. You'll also find the occasional jam session going on in the front room.

The actual libations are secondary to the atmosphere at ESL, but last time I went, I had a very good glass (or two, or three) of Pinot Grigio. The warmth of the plush decor and downtempo beats (and, ok, the wine) kept me warm even as Jason and I ventured out into the cold December night in search of Thai food. (Dupont's Thaiphoon post coming soon.)

Good to know:
ESL is located at 1212 18th Street, just off Connecticut Avenue. It is accessible via the South entrance of the Dupont Metro stop on the Red Line. Look for the blue Mattress Discounters sign, and take the door just to the left.

It's generally free before 10 p.m., but after that, you might run into a $10 cover. Things seem casual on weekdays (I showed up in jeans and my work blazer), but apparently a line forms on weekends, so on Friday and Saturday nights, you may want to don your bouncer-pleasing best.

Photo of ESL's interior taken from World's Best Bars website.'

A Veritable Wine Bar

Really, is there anything better than wine and cheese? Well, actually there may be. Try three wines paired with sumptuous cheeses and some well-chosen charcuterie, served in a cozy, dimly-lit bar with the casual strains of Jimmy Buffett and Van Morrison playing in the background. Thus is the winning formula at Dupont's new wine bar, Veritas, where Jason and I found ourselves warming up after our Saturday expedition.

Having found Veritas intimate (read: tiny) space completely packed the previous evening by 8 p.m., we decided to try again on Saturday at 5 p.m. Sure enough, we snagged a seat with ease on Saturday but by the time we left at 6:30, it was already filling up, so eager vinos should be prepared to come early or wait for a table. Indeed, Veritas' exposed brick setting measures only 800 square feet, but, rest assured, some very good things come in this small package.

Veritas serves wines by the glass or bottle, but perhaps the best way to sample a few varietals is to order one of the flights - three half-glasses grouped together by theme or region. With playful monikers like "Allied Powers," (a trio of red blends, two from France, and one Californian), Veritas doesn't take itself too seriously, in spite of its sophisticated premise.

I started with the "Three Blancs" flight, a smart trio of whites, including a Chenin Blanc from Washington state, a Pinot Blanc of Alsatian provenance, and a Californian Sauvignon Blanc, each one smoother than the last. Jason, meanwhile, ordered the "Underrated" flight, composed of three earthy reds, all Californian, including one Merlot, and two Cabernet Sauvignon varietals.

The wines were wonderful. But what's wine without some cheese? we asked ourselves. Thankfully, Veritas offers non-wine samplings as well. Our cheese flight consisted of a smooth-as-butter Brillat-Savarin, a creamy Humboldt Fog goat cheese, and a semi-hard Manchego-like Spanish Idiazabel. I think I died and went to heaven, and that was before the charcuterie, which consisted of a chicken pate, spiked with champagne and a spicy Italian salumi. The cheese and charcuterie come with crusty sourdough bread, as well as marinated olives, pickled gherkins, and rasberry jam. Now that's what I call a snack.

Good to know:
Veritas is located at 2031 Florida Avenue, a short walk from the Dupont North Metro stop. After exiting the Metro on the North side, walk up Connecticut Ave. Veritas is located on the left side of Connecticut Ave. at Florida Ave.

Wine flights will run you betwen $14-$23 for three half glasses. You can order three cheeses or two charcuterie selections of your choice for $11.

Atmosphere is casual chic.

Image taken from Veritas' website.

How to have a perfect Saturday in DC

Sleep in. Wake up slowly. Run across the street for a copy of the Washington Post, and coffee creamer. Brew six cups of coffee (three for you, and three for your equally undercaffienated boyfriend). Enjoy said coffee and newspaper. Make it about halfway through the crossword puzzle before giving up and moving onto the comics.

Shower and get dressed in your coziest sweater, favorite jeans, and Pumas (or other equally comfortable pair of shoes). Consider going out for brunch, but decide on Chipotle instead. (Who says a chicken burrito isn't brunch food, anyway?)

Take the Metro to Judiciary Square, which deposits you within a couple blocks of your favorite Smithsonian museum, the Hirschhorn. Start with the recent acquisitions in the ground floor gallery, where you'll find works of John Baldessari and Andy Warhol, among others. Move on to the second floor, where the intoxicatingly colorful works of Color Field painter Morris Louis are on display until January 6. (Louis, who lived in DC from 1952 until his death in 1962, is also considered a primary member of the Washington Color School, an influential group of DC-area abstract artists who displayed works in several seminal exhibits during the 1960's.) Stop and look in awe at the massive "Para III" (pictured above). If you can pull yourself away, take the escalator to the third floor to see whimsical sculpures by Alexander Calder, as well as the museum's extensive collections of moody paintings by abstract impressionist Willem de Kooning. Leave the Hirschhorn with a renewed love for its extensive and smartly displayed collection.

Take the Metro to Dupont Circle. Duck into Kramerbooks to browse, and swoon over the scent of freshly-baked pie wafting from the adjoining Afterwords Cafe. Flip through Chuck Palahniuk's Stranger than Fiction, and Roger Housden's Ten Poems to Change Your Life. Gravitate (as always seems to happen) to the food and wine section, where you find A Hedonist in the Cellar: Adventures in Wine, Jay McInerney's cheeky chronicling of his forays as House & Garden's wine writer, which reminds you of your yearning to try Dupont's new wine bar, Veritas.

Find your boyfriend in the film section, thoroughly (and adorably) engrossed in I'm a Lebowski, You're a Lebowski. Gently (so as not to break his intense, Coen Brothers-induced concentration) ask if he's ready to go. Walk the couple blocks up Connecticut Avenue to Veritas, and have an experience so thoroughly delicious it deserves it deserves its own post (coming soon!).

Walk the few blocks back to your apartment in Adams Morgan, warm and happy from the wine despite the chill in the air. Wish that every day could be this perfect. Remember that there's always another Saturday adventure to be had, and that the next is a mere seven days away. Remember -again - why you love living in DC.

Photo of Kramerbooks by Flickr user Eye Captain.
Morris Louis' "Where" (1960) image taken from Wikipedia.

A Hankering

I'm hard-pressed to think of something I enjoy more than a dozen assorted oysters on the half shell accompanied by a glass of white wine, which is why I can't think of many places I'd rather find myself these days than Hank's Oyster Bar near Dupont circle. The neighborhood spot, serving simple, accessible New England beach fare, never fails to satisfy my craving. Mix and match from the daily selection of fresh oysters to customize your order, and ask for a glass of the Albarino, a Spanish white wine, whose tartness cuts nicely through the creamy salinity of the shellfish.

Hank's also serves a mean fried oyster po'boy, which I enhance with a squeeze of lemon and squirt of hot sauce. Though I've never tried 'em, the fried Ipswich clams boast devoted followers as well. Chef and Owner Jamie Leeds - who recently opened a Hank's outpost in Old Town - serves these dishes and lots of other good stuff in an intimate townhouse setting that feels equally perfect for a romantic dinner for two or casual get-together with friends. Be forewarned, however, that there's no dessert menu. You'll hardly miss it, though, when your waiter drops off Hank's signature hunks of dark chocolate with the bill, a perfect less-is-more ending to the exceedingly satisfying experience.

Also worth noting is Hank's riff on the classic "Partridge in a Pear Tree" holiday song; for the month of December, both locations will serve the "Twelve Seafood Dishes of Christmas," priced at $75. Included in the bounty are: one cup of ceviche, two jumbo shrimp, three golden scallops, four barbecued oysters, five littleneck clams, six West Coast oysters, seven peel n’ eats, eight Ipswich clams, nine golden rings (calamari), 10 fried oysters, 11 steamed mussels and 12 East Coast oysters. You may want to bring some friends along for back-up. (Thanks to Metrocurean for the tip-off.)

Good to know:
Hank's Oyster Bar is located at 1624 Q Street, NW, easily accessible by Metro. Exit the Dupont Metro station to the South, then walk around the circle to the right, turning onto Q St. Hank's is a couple blocks down Q St. on the right side of the street.

Dress-wise, the atmosphere is relatively relaxed, but Dupont being Dupont (and oysters being classy), you may want to err on the side of chic.

Photos taken from Hank's Oyster Bar website.