Cheese of the Month, the first of twelve installments

I fantasize that one day I will move to Paris, and be one of those elegant Parisian women who throws sophisticated dinner parties in my impeccably decorated apartment. The morning of my soiree, I would leisurely peruse the local markets, examining the shiny flesh of an eggplant, a marbleized leg of lamb, the little glass jars of honey, choosing only the finest ingredients. On my way home, I would stop by the fromagerie to choose three perfect cheeses to serve my guests. I would spend the afternoon cooking in my small, yet cozy kitchen (which would look something like the above), a glass of wine by my side and some Astrud Gilberto in the background. There might be olives or tapenade. Caviar or foie gras and toast. Dinner would be served on a long wooden table, topped with a white linen tablecloth, a vase of wildflowers, and votive candles in blue glass jars. Conversation would flow, and guests would dine on a nice gigot d'agneau (leg of lamb dressed with garlic, olive oil, salt & pepper, and other herbs), a simple green salad, a basket of warm bread (and more wine, of course). Before dessert (an almond tart), I would serve the cheeses I had picked out earlier that day. Everyone would be having such a wonderful time that no one would want to go home, but I would finally kick them out so that I could settle into a a nice hot bubble bath. (In my fantasy, someone else does the dishes!)

As I mentioned in a recent post, Jason gave me a membership to the Artisanal Cheese of the Month Club for Christmas, and my first package arrived today. Opening the box, I was struck by a feeling of well-being, the three beautiful cheeses within evoking promises of dinner parties to come and good times to be had. The bounty? A buttery Hudson Valley Camembert, The Fog Light Goat's Milk cheese (similar to the widely-adored Humboldt Fog), and a strong, tangy Petite Munster. I sampled a bite of each tonight, a sort of apres-diner indulgence, and a taste of the wonderful times (and cheese deliveries!) to come in 2009.

Thank you, Jason. You are totally invited to my next dinner party.

Photo is from Laissez Faire Design blog, which has got lots of lovely pictures and other fun things to look at.

Birthday dinner at Citronelle

For my birthday, Jason (the most amazing boyfriend in the world) took me out for an absolutely incredible meal, at DC's famed Citronelle. We decided to go all out, and get the 10-course tasting menu - the Promenade Gourmande - with wine pairings. It was a truly epic experience, and difficult to "review" in a single go, but I want to at least describe the highlights.

PROMENADE GOURMANDE

AMUSE BOUCHE
Egg surprise, escargot crumble, chicken “lollipop” Champagne Francois Billion with “Cuvee de Reserve”, Brut Grand Cru, Chardonnay

The egg surprise referred to the cup in which this dish was served, fashioned from an actual egg shell that had been cut in half. The egg shell was filled with a light-as-air cauliflower foam, silky cubes of salmon tartare, and scallion bits. Escargot crumble was a diminutive glass cup of escargot topped and baked with a buttery sauce and garlicky bread crumbs. The "lollipop" was a toothpick holding the most tender morsel of chicken I've ever tasted, breaded and delicately fried (and more densely flavorful than I knew poultry could be) perched in a tiny puddle of mustardy cream sauce.

VICHYSSOISE “2008”

Michel Richard's updated version of Vichyssoise, a classic French soup, traditionally made with cream, chicken stock, and pureed vegetables. Ours featured an elegant disk of creamy, Parmesan-flavored gelee (almost flan-like in texture), amidst a decadent chicken stock, topped with some kind of crispy chicken-flavored crumbs. The creamy savory deliciousness of that broth had me tilting the plate toward me in a rather inelegant attempt to coax every last drop onto my spoon.

MOSAIC
“Surf & turf” with Sancerre Domaine Roland Tissier 2007

This is, perhaps, the most visually stunning dish I've ever laid eyes on. A flat square-shaped plate is "tiled" with circles of various meat and fish, like tuna, salmon, scallop, beef carpaccio, etc., along with circles of roasted peppers, then drizzled with a basil olive oil and sprinkled with frisee and arugula. It was truly a feast for the eyes, and was every bit as tasty as it looks.

SABLEFISH

Broiled, saké-miso marinated with Riesling Grand Cru “Geisberg” Domaine Kientzler 2004

The simple flavors of this dish were a welcome palate-cleanser after the complexity of the Mosaic. The sweetness of the miso marinade didn't overwhelm the mild fish, and a side of tender baby vegetables provided a hint of bitterness that contrasted nicely with everything else. The Riesling was also quite refreshing at this point in the meal.

LOBSTER BURGER

With Puligny-Montrachet “Sous le Puits,” Premier Cru, Domaine Larue 2003

Tender, creamy chunks of lobster meat in a buttery bun, graced by a small circle of tomato confit (an upscale riff on ketchup). Served with a conical bowl of ethereally crisp potato chips.

SQUAB
Leg confit, foie gras-syrah sauce with Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot” Premier Cru, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2004

Any misgivings I'd had about eating squab were put to rest with this lovely dish. Unbelievably tender and moist, the squab was served with a sweet and tangy syrah sauce, and dotted with petite vegetable globes. Though it lacked the pizazz of the Mosaic or the Amuse Bouche, I think this dish was my favorite for its uncomplicated, earthy flavors.

SELECTION OF IMPORTED CHEESE

With Zinfandel, Turley Wine Cellars “California Old Vines”

My memories are not quite as crystalline at this point (remember, we were doing the menu with wine pairings!), but I do remember something sinfully creamy (I'm guessing it was something like a Brillat-Savarin), and some type of blue/gorgonzola.

STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL

A tiny glass cup of brightly-flavored strawberry gel, studded with chunks of strawberry

KIT CAT BAR

With Banyuls “Heylos,” Domaine Alain Reynaud 2002

Melted chocolate with hazelnut overtones encase crispy stacked layers of Corn Flakes, milk chocolate and peanut butter. As completely amazing as it sounds.

PETITS FOURS
A platter of small, fruit-inspired sweet cakes. See petits fours.

Part II in a series of posts on Adams Morgans' burgeoning intimate French/Belgian bistros-with-sane-noise-levels scene

Besides the previously-blogged-about Napoleon, low-key places to grab a drink and engage in actual conversation are rare in my neighborhood. If you want to, I dunno, actually talk to your drinking companions, the overwhelming majority of joints along the 18th Street strip are just too damn noisy. That's why I was so pleased when my friend Dan introduced me to Cafe L'Enfant the other night.

With its well-conceived wine list and casually cozy atmosphere, Cafe L'Enfant has now joined Napoleon on my neighborhood shortlist of places to go for drinks and conversation. I finally got to try this year's Beaujolais Nouveau, whose youthful berry tones are a bit too fleeting on the tongue for my taste. Nonetheless, I'd been wanting to at least try it to know what the hype was about. For my second glass, I went with a glass of Cotes du Rhone, a heftier wine whose gravity I appreciated all the more in contrast with the Beaujolais. This particular Cotes du Rhone (an appellation sometimes derided for its vague provenance) was selected by Kermit Lynch, a prolific wine importer whose name I recognized from Jay McInerney's A Hedonist in the Cellar (which, by the way, is a great primer for the budding oenophile, and is the first in the series of books I plan to read to educate myself about wine. Well that, and, um, drinking lots of it.)

In addition to wine, Cafe L'Enfant boasts a well-rounded Bieres Menu, though so enamored was I with the wine list, I cannot for the life of me recall which two beers Dan ordered. Like Napoloeon, L'Enfant also serves bistro fare as well as sweet and savory crepes, which make for perfect post-drink snacking. Grab a seat at one of the tables by the window and look forward to an evening of not having to yell "WHAT DID YOU SAY? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!"

I'll drink to that.

Good to know:
Cafe L'Enfant is located at 2000 18th Street, NW. The closest Metro stop is Dupont Circle on the Red Line. Exit on the north side, then walk north on Connecticut to Florida Ave. Take a right on Florida, till you hit 18th. Cafe L'Enfant will be on the corner to the left. The atmosphere is decidedly casual.

Photo of Cafe L'Enfant by Flickr user robert takes pictures.

A Napoleon Complex

The days are short, and the air is chilly. Patio happy hours and summer cocktails feel like a distant memory. But that's no reason to pout when the clock strikes 5 o'clock. Adams Morgan's sophisticated new bistro, Napoleon, is the perfect place to cozy up to a couple of drinks and some casual French fare. The Parisien-inspired spot has quickly become my office's post-work venue of choice. The best part? Napoleon's drink menu features an extensive list of champagne cocktails, sure to warm you up in no time.

When I went with co-workers, I tried "A Good Night Kiss," made with Campari, champagne, and Angostura bitter. The bitters made for an interesting contrast to the champagne's sweet fizz. If you find yourself reminiscing about warm summer nights, "La Tropicale" (champagne and mango nectar) will ease your nostalgie. My co-worker, R., had the "French 75," made with Bombay Saphhire, lemon juice, and champagne. I must say, I've seen nary a classier silhouette in Adams Morgan than R. sipping her sparkly ice blue drink from a slender glass flute, the twinkly lights of Columbia Road and 18th Street flickering outside. Napoleon's vibe is a far cry from the usual debauchery that descends on its environs at dark, that's for certain.

All that champagne gave us a good excuse to sample some of Napoleon's bistro fare. The pommes frites are dangerously addictive, and come with ketchup and a sweet tarragon-flecked mayonnaise. The mussels aren't as plump and juicy as I've had elsewhere, but the sauce from the Moules Marinieres (white wine, shallots, and garlic) makes for some divine dunking action with the gratis bread basket. I haven't had a chance to try the rest of the menu, but the savory crepes sound especially promising, as does the Cote d'Agneau (rack of lamb, served with potato gratin). Napoleon also serves brunch, and must be doing a fine job of it - the place is always packed when I walk by on weekends.

In addition to the restaurant upstairs, there's also also a moodily lit downstairs lounge. Think slouchy leather couches, exposed brick, and glowing lanterns mounted on the wall. Though it was empty when I saw it (I took the liberty of peeking around a bit on a trip to the ladies' room downstairs), it's not hard to imagine the room filled with people sitting and talking quietly over those exquisite champagne cocktails (which, by the way, are half price between 5 and 8 p.m.). It's almost enough to make a girl forget about those warm August evenings, sipping Blue Moons on the rooftop at The Reef. Almost.

Good to know:
Napoleon is located at 1847 Columbia Road, NW. It's not terribly close to a Metro stop (probably a 15-minute walk from the Woodley Park - Zoo/Adams Morgan stop on the Red line. I recommend a cab, especially post-champagne, but there is some limited street parking available on the surrounding blocks.

The atmosphere is upscale casual. I felt fine, if a bit stuffy, in my work clothes, but I would definitely change into my slouchy black boots, dark jeans, and gray Marc Jacobs tunic top to hit up the downstairs lounge.

Photo by Flickr user Roboppy.