In a Thanksgiving kind of mood

I'm heading home to Chicago for a midwestern Thanksgiving this year, and I am totally excited to help my mom cook The Big Meal. A grocery shopping jaunt to Harris Teeter this afternoon amplified my anticipation; the store is already brimming with giant frozen turkeys, special holiday displays, jars of cranberry jelly, and the like. I wandered the aisles aimlessly, taking in the festive atmosphere (and the free samples!).

My sister makes her famous mashed potatoes each year, but all the other dishes are up for grabs. I've been scouting around the web for inspiration, which isn't difficult since every remotely food-related site switches to Thanksgiving-pocalypse mode this time of year, complete with countdowns and turkey slide shows. Amidst the frenzy, I truly enjoy the measured wisdom imparted by Gourmet. No stranger to the culinary obsession surrounding the holiday (exhibit A: its guide to "achieving turkey perfection"), the magazine (and its website) nonetheless maintains its composure with its clean, low-key design, and intelligent approach. In a smart acknowledgment of diverse food traditions as a metaphor for America's melting pot greatness, Gourmet is offering five traditional Thanksgiving menus, each inspired by a different region of the country. Each menu, of course, includes a turkey, and I'm finding myself particularly intrigued by the Southern-style Roast Turkey with Herbed Oyster Stuffing and Giblet Gravy. The "California Eatin" three-onion stuffing also sounds delicious. The Northeastern nutmeg ice cream would be the perfect way to end the big meal.

This month's print version of the magazine offers a Latino-inspired Thanksgiving menu (adobo Turkey, chipotle meatballs, cornbread and chorizo stuffing, sweet potato coconut puree, and apple pie with Mexican brown sugar), as well as a Mediterranean meal (braised artichokes, mushroom and farro pie, mache salad, parmesan-roasted butternut squash, cranberry sauce with dates and orange, and a pumpkin tart with anise-seed crust).

I've honestly no idea how authentic these menus might be for the various regions and peoples they claim to represent, but I love reading about all the different variations out there. I would welcome hearing about everyone's Thanksgiving traditions and must-haves, recipes, ideas, etc.

(Currently thankful for: wild sweet orange Tazo tea, incredible Mexican food and at Oyamel last night with a good friend who I hadn't seen in a long time, natural Greek yogurt with honey and granola for breakfast, multi-vitamins, freshly brewed coffee, good friends, an amazing family, my new job and colleagues, Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle on audiobook, the bright yellow leaves blanketing my neighborhood's sidewalks, and, of course, the Gourmet subscription renewal my sister gave me for my birthday).

Photo of caramel pie by Romulo Yanes, who does beautiful work for Gourmet and others.

Noodle Express

Tonight Jason and I met up with his old college roommate, Ming Ye, who happened to be in town for the weekend. After wandering around Chinatown for a bit, we happened upon Chinatown Express, whose crowded dining room we took to be a good sign. An elderly gentleman was making fresh noodles in the front window, threading the long tubular strands through his fingers and then stretching his hands apart in a tangled accordion of pasta. I suddenly had a hankering for noodle soup.

Despite its intriguing exterior, Chinatown Express doesn't offer a lot in the way of decor. Upon entering, we navigated a perilously narrow staircase to enter a small room, where we were seated at a plain round table, bathed in the harsh glow of neon lighting and a television set playing an unrecognizeable news station.

But no matter. The chicken noodle soup was restorative. Spicy and head-clearing with generous additions of Sriracha and hot chili oil, and utterly comforting in its familiarity, it was uncomplicated bliss from the first slurpy bite. Hot pork buns, shrimp dumplings with tangy scallion sauce, and a soothing cup of tea rounded out the delicious offerings.

It's easy to see why the Washingtonian named Chinatown Express a "no frills" favorite in their "Best of Chinatown" feature. For $5.95, you can get aforementioned noodles, either as soup or fried - lo mein style - with your choice of chicken, beef, seafood, or vegetables. In an expensive city where good Chinese food is hard to come by, I say that's a pretty great deal.

Good to know:
Chinatown Express is located at 746 6th Street, NW. By Metro, exit at Chinatown/Gallery Place Metro (Green, Yellow, or Red line), and exit on the north side of the Verizon Center. Walk east for one block on H Street until you get to 6th. Chinatown Express will be on the right-hand side near the corner of H and 6th.

Photo of Chinatown Express from The Backpack Boy's blog.

Cashion In

I've been looking forward to this weekend all month because my parents will be in town! They live in Chicago (a fantastic food city in its own right), so they only get to DC one or two times a year. For that reason, it's pretty special when they come to DC, and I like to take them out for at least one memorable meal while they're in town.

I gave careful consideration to my restaurant choice this time. My requirements were stiff. The restaurant had to be easily accessible from my apartment (for parental units unaccustomed to and potentially stressed out by zipping around on the Metro), quiet enough to have a real conversation, not so popular that it would be overwhelmingly crowded (sorry, Zaytinya, Oyamel, and the Jose Andres empire in general), with a selection of straightforward fare to satisfy my dad's meat-and-potatoes palate (sayonara Perry's and Sushi Taro), but at the same time, more nuanced than your prototypical Washington steakhouse (ahem), with a good wine list (something we can all agree on), and a restaurant unique to the DC area.

As it turns out, the perfect place exists right in my own neighborhood, in the form of none other than Cashion's Eat Place, the Adams Morgan neighborhood gem serving an eclectic menu of interesting, yet unpretentious American dishes. Despite its proximity to my apartment, I've never eaten there, but I walk by it constantly, and have always been intrigued by the retro neon-pink signage and warmly-hued interior.

Has anyone been? Any menu recommendations?

Autumn Baked Goodness

Something about the crisp autumn air makes me want to bake, bake, and bake some more. I'm tempted to order my own copy of Brooklyn's eponymous Baked. The book is a collection of the bakery's favorite recipes, like The Sweet and Salty Cake, the Peanut Butter Crispy Bar, the Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Loaf, and their famous Cheddar Chipotle Biscuits. Mmmmm.

You can order your copy here.

Photo from Baked by Tina Rupp.

Birthday dinner at Citronelle

For my birthday, Jason (the most amazing boyfriend in the world) took me out for an absolutely incredible meal, at DC's famed Citronelle. We decided to go all out, and get the 10-course tasting menu - the Promenade Gourmande - with wine pairings. It was a truly epic experience, and difficult to "review" in a single go, but I want to at least describe the highlights.

PROMENADE GOURMANDE

AMUSE BOUCHE
Egg surprise, escargot crumble, chicken “lollipop” Champagne Francois Billion with “Cuvee de Reserve”, Brut Grand Cru, Chardonnay

The egg surprise referred to the cup in which this dish was served, fashioned from an actual egg shell that had been cut in half. The egg shell was filled with a light-as-air cauliflower foam, silky cubes of salmon tartare, and scallion bits. Escargot crumble was a diminutive glass cup of escargot topped and baked with a buttery sauce and garlicky bread crumbs. The "lollipop" was a toothpick holding the most tender morsel of chicken I've ever tasted, breaded and delicately fried (and more densely flavorful than I knew poultry could be) perched in a tiny puddle of mustardy cream sauce.

VICHYSSOISE “2008”

Michel Richard's updated version of Vichyssoise, a classic French soup, traditionally made with cream, chicken stock, and pureed vegetables. Ours featured an elegant disk of creamy, Parmesan-flavored gelee (almost flan-like in texture), amidst a decadent chicken stock, topped with some kind of crispy chicken-flavored crumbs. The creamy savory deliciousness of that broth had me tilting the plate toward me in a rather inelegant attempt to coax every last drop onto my spoon.

MOSAIC
“Surf & turf” with Sancerre Domaine Roland Tissier 2007

This is, perhaps, the most visually stunning dish I've ever laid eyes on. A flat square-shaped plate is "tiled" with circles of various meat and fish, like tuna, salmon, scallop, beef carpaccio, etc., along with circles of roasted peppers, then drizzled with a basil olive oil and sprinkled with frisee and arugula. It was truly a feast for the eyes, and was every bit as tasty as it looks.

SABLEFISH

Broiled, saké-miso marinated with Riesling Grand Cru “Geisberg” Domaine Kientzler 2004

The simple flavors of this dish were a welcome palate-cleanser after the complexity of the Mosaic. The sweetness of the miso marinade didn't overwhelm the mild fish, and a side of tender baby vegetables provided a hint of bitterness that contrasted nicely with everything else. The Riesling was also quite refreshing at this point in the meal.

LOBSTER BURGER

With Puligny-Montrachet “Sous le Puits,” Premier Cru, Domaine Larue 2003

Tender, creamy chunks of lobster meat in a buttery bun, graced by a small circle of tomato confit (an upscale riff on ketchup). Served with a conical bowl of ethereally crisp potato chips.

SQUAB
Leg confit, foie gras-syrah sauce with Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot” Premier Cru, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2004

Any misgivings I'd had about eating squab were put to rest with this lovely dish. Unbelievably tender and moist, the squab was served with a sweet and tangy syrah sauce, and dotted with petite vegetable globes. Though it lacked the pizazz of the Mosaic or the Amuse Bouche, I think this dish was my favorite for its uncomplicated, earthy flavors.

SELECTION OF IMPORTED CHEESE

With Zinfandel, Turley Wine Cellars “California Old Vines”

My memories are not quite as crystalline at this point (remember, we were doing the menu with wine pairings!), but I do remember something sinfully creamy (I'm guessing it was something like a Brillat-Savarin), and some type of blue/gorgonzola.

STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL

A tiny glass cup of brightly-flavored strawberry gel, studded with chunks of strawberry

KIT CAT BAR

With Banyuls “Heylos,” Domaine Alain Reynaud 2002

Melted chocolate with hazelnut overtones encase crispy stacked layers of Corn Flakes, milk chocolate and peanut butter. As completely amazing as it sounds.

PETITS FOURS
A platter of small, fruit-inspired sweet cakes. See petits fours.

Sustainability is the green plate special at Founding Farmers

This past week, I was fortunate enough to get a sneak preview of an exciting new addition to DC's restaurant scene, Founding Farmers, which offers an upscale, yet straightforward take on "green" dining with a heartland slant. Inspired by the fresh bounty of America's family farmers, Chef Graham Duncan cooks up homemade classic American dishes, with a focus on sustainably sourced and locally grown ingredients wherever possible. The sleek, yet casual setting complements the restaurant's commitment to sustainability - the space is LEED-designed, and has been designated a Certified Green Restaurant.

With an expansive menu spanning a wide variety of farm-grown fare, Founding Farmers will satisfy an impressive range of eco-conscious appetites. From Oysters Rockefeller to Farmer's Meatloaf to Maine Lobster Rolls to the Fresh Ground Frisco Burger, the menu winks and nods at a whole host of regional food genres and traditions. It's an aptly representative hodgepodge of American tastes for a restaurant located in the heart of the nation's capital, just blocks from the buildings where politicians and lobbyists debate and vote on legislation like the 2008 Farm Bill, among other things.

Founding Farmers is actually owned by a collective of more than 40,000 American family farmers, often referred to as the North Dakota Farmers Union, a group devoted to the economic and social well-being of farmers, ranchers, and rural communities.  The emphasis on farm-grown ingredients is of particular interest to me, given the battered condition of America's family farms.  Just days before my meal there, I had finished reading "The Omnivore's Dilemma," Michael Pollan's elegant exploration of the contemporary eater's complicated relationship to the food on his or her plate. Pollan examines how our changing food landscape has impacted family farmers, specifically how the rise of fast food has created a demand for the efficient and automated mass production of dextrose and starch products. The consequent industrialization of the planting and harvesting processes has created such a surplus of supply that low corn prices can't support farmers working at a sustainable, human scale.

It's against this backdrop that restaurants like Founding Farmers remind us of the pleasures of slow food versus fast, the value of community (guests can choose to dine at communal tables and share family size portions), and the sheer deliciousness of food that has been handled with a careful human touch. And it is delicious, indeed. My Southern Pan Fried Chicken was a beautiful golden crisp on the outside, and moist and tender inside. Served with a creamy white gravy, and a funnel cake waffle, the dish is a clever riff on a dish with deep roots in America's culinary history, but also conjured up happy memories of the Iowan county and state fairs that dotted the summers of my youth. I can't wait to go back again and try the Bacon Lollis: Nueske's bacon with a glaze of cinnamon and brown sugar. I'm also excited to try dishes like the 17 Vegetable Salad, handmade Ricotta Ravioli, the Prosciutto, Fig, and Mascarpone Flatbread, and the herb-rubbed Pork Tenderloin with a honey apple glaze.

The large, multi-level space (designed by CORE architecture + design), employs playful touches (bird-shaped lighting fixtures, fuschia-colored accents) combined with an urban farmhouse aesthetic where stainless steel fixtures blend seamlessly with handcrafted wood tables. An expansive bar area houses Founding Farmers' innovative bar program, where Bar Chef Jon Arroyo proffers small batch brewery beers and bourbons, organic and biodynamic wines, and 'chef-crafted' cocktails, like The Constituation (a heady combo of Plymouth Gin, chamomile, blueberries, lemon, and ginger liqueur). No green detail is overlooked at Founding Farmers; among the many sustainable touches, menus are printed on recycled paper using soy-based ink, and the interior was painted using low and no-fume paints.

The fantastic food and whimsical decor at Founding Farmers make for a fun experience. So fun, in fact, that it would be easy to dine there without thinking too hard about the people behind the food, without thinking too hard about the plight of our family farmers, and without thinking too hard about what's at stake for our rapidly disintegrating culinary traditions, not to mention (at the risk of sounding pedantic) the health of our bodies and our planet. Perhaps we do fun things like dining out because we want to escape, if only for a couple hours, from our worries, and from a world in which it's exponentially easier to obtain a Big Mac than a health insurance plan. But as restaurants like Founding Farmers hope to remind us, perhaps we shouldn't have to escape at all.

Good to know:
Founding Farmers is located in the International Monetary Fund (IMF) HQ2 building at 1924 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, at the corner of 20th Street and Pennsylvania Ave., NW. It is easily accessible via Farragut West or Foggy Bottom Metro stops on the Orange/Blue lines.

Thanks to Jennifer at SPIN DC for the deconstructed logo image and other assistance with this article.

Above and beyond at Etete

Although I've eaten at many restaurants with polite and efficient service, I have never before felt the urge to hug any servers. Well, not before last night anyway. Last night, I had the pleasure of dining Etete, whose warm and hospitable service was truly unlike anything I have ever experienced. Widely regarded as one of the city's best Ethiopian restaurant's, Etete's focus on creating a welcoming atmosphere was apparent the moment Jason and I stepped inside the restaurant, tucked into an attractively decorated townhouse in the heart of DC's Little Ethiopia neighborhood.

We were greeted immediately by a smiling hostess. I explained that we had made reservations, but that we were meeting a third person who hadn't arrived yet. I expected that we would be asked to wait until "all members of our party" were present and accounted for (as seems to be standard protocol at most places nowadays). However, the hostess cheerfully showed us to a table without a moment's hesitation. As I would soon find out, that gesture was but a hint at the effort Etete's staff makes toward ensuring a unique restaurant experience.

Served on a large circular platter lined with spongy injera bread, Etete's food lives up to the hype. We ordered a vegetable combination platter - potatoes in several different sauces, two spicy lentil dishes, collard greens, corn, and a green salad, all of which were fresher and more flavorful than the ones I've had at other Ethiopian restaurants. We each ordered an entree as well. Jason had Kitfo, minced raw beef seasoned with herbed butter and hot red pepper, and served with seasoned cottage cheese. The beef was a glistening pink and silky on the tongue, in texture akin to tuna tartare, but more deeply flavorful. I was stealthily scooping up bits of it throughout the meal. My Lega Tibs (lamb sauteed with onion and peppers) was equally delicious. Our friend ordered the Yeawaze Tibs, strips of beef sauteed with seasoned butter, fresh tomato, green pepper, onions, and spices.

We were halfway through our meal, when owner Tiwaltenigus Shenegeleg (the restaurant is named for her - "Mama" is "etete" in Amharic) appeared at our table, bearing fresh bowls of the vegetable dishes. Smiling at our grateful amazement, she proceeded to scoop heaping refills onto our platter, and then, noticing our near-empty basket of injera, instructed a server to bring more right away. The surprising touches didn't end there. Nearing the end of our meal, we looked up to see that Mama Shenegeleg was back, this time proffering a tin of roasting coffee beans which she wafted under our noses. The beans smelled amazing, but we were simply too full to partake in the complimentary coffee. The vibe was so relaxed that we lingered for awhile after paying the bill, but never felt rushed to leave. In fact, Mama Shenegeleg returned several more times, even as we sat talking long after we finished our meal, once bearing more coffee and then with freshly-popped popcorn.

The popcorn was a rather offbeat choice for a dessert offering. But then again, Etete is full of surprises. I can't wait to return.

Good to know:
Etete is located at 1942 9th Street, NW. The closest Metro stop is U Street/Cardozo on the Green or Yellow line. Exit the Metro at 10th Street. Etete is on the corner of 9th and U Streets.

Photos of Etete's food and building by Flickr users roboppy and rockcreek respectively.