Before and after

Weekend wonderful-ness

A weekend of culinary goodness awaits.

Tonight: dinner at Penn Quarter's critically acclaimed contemporary American restaurant, 701, one of many local restaurants participating in this week's "Appetite Stimulus Plan." The deal is similar to Restaurant Week. $35 will get you three courses at some of DC's top establishments, a fine deal for both the taste buds and the wallet. Today's the last day to participate, so hit up OpenTable to snag a last-minute reservation.

And now, onto the important part: the food. For the Appetite Stimulus Plan, 701 is probably offering a fixed menu of some kind, but that will hardly matter if the food lives up to its reputation. With exciting offerings like Smoked Bacon Wrapped Sea Scallops (with melted foie gras, blackberry gastrique, and tobiko creme fraiche), and Sesame Crusted Salmon (with chilled thai glass noodle salad, green melon vinaigrette, and honey lavender glaze), 701 has garnered attention for Chef Bobby Varua's gently playful cuisine, whose delicate flavor combinations are enhanced, but not overwhelmed, by Asian influences. Dishes like Chestnut Ravioli (with beurre noisette, cider gastrique, and apple endive salad) and Stuffed Muscovy Duck Leg (with foie gras butter, cranberries, pumpkin veloute, and poire williams tapioca pearls) also reveal a commitment to the seasonal bounty.

I know that restaurants sometimes have a hard time meeting the demands of the overly zealous, minimally patient crowds attracted by these kinds of promotions, and I am anticipating that it might be rather hectic on a Friday night, particularly given 701's prime location in the city's theatre and entertainment district. I plan to approach the experience with an open mind, a deep pocketful of patience, and quite possibly, a sample or two from 701's impressive wine menu, to tide me over.

Saturday: Thanksgiving potluck party with friends. You wouldn't run a marathon without completing several fairly long runs beforehand. The same logic applies with Turkey Day, my friends. If you want to finish your plate on Thanksgiving proper, it makes sense to warm up beforehand with a comparable meal. Hence, the pre-Thanksgiving Thanksgiving. I'm making Sweet Potato Pie Bars to bring.

Sweet Potato Pie Bars
1 (18.25-ounce) yellow cake mix, divided use
6 tablespoons margarine OR butter, melted and divided use
1 large egg
1 1/2 cups mashed cooked sweet potatoes
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, divided use
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large egg whites
1 (5-ounce) can evaporated milk
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Set aside 1 cup yellow cake mix.
In a mixing bowl, blend together remaining cake mix, 4 tablespoons melted margarine, and egg; mix well. Pat mixture into the bottom of a 13 x 9 x 2-inch pan coated with nonstick cooking spray. In a separate mixing bowl, combine sweet potatoes, nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, sugar, egg whites, and evaporated milk until creamy. Pour filling over prepared crust.
Mix reserved 1 cup cake mix, remaining 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, remaining 2 tablespoons melted margarine, brown sugar, and pecans and sprinkle over filling.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until filling is set.

Photo from 701's website.

In a Thanksgiving kind of mood

I'm heading home to Chicago for a midwestern Thanksgiving this year, and I am totally excited to help my mom cook The Big Meal. A grocery shopping jaunt to Harris Teeter this afternoon amplified my anticipation; the store is already brimming with giant frozen turkeys, special holiday displays, jars of cranberry jelly, and the like. I wandered the aisles aimlessly, taking in the festive atmosphere (and the free samples!).

My sister makes her famous mashed potatoes each year, but all the other dishes are up for grabs. I've been scouting around the web for inspiration, which isn't difficult since every remotely food-related site switches to Thanksgiving-pocalypse mode this time of year, complete with countdowns and turkey slide shows. Amidst the frenzy, I truly enjoy the measured wisdom imparted by Gourmet. No stranger to the culinary obsession surrounding the holiday (exhibit A: its guide to "achieving turkey perfection"), the magazine (and its website) nonetheless maintains its composure with its clean, low-key design, and intelligent approach. In a smart acknowledgment of diverse food traditions as a metaphor for America's melting pot greatness, Gourmet is offering five traditional Thanksgiving menus, each inspired by a different region of the country. Each menu, of course, includes a turkey, and I'm finding myself particularly intrigued by the Southern-style Roast Turkey with Herbed Oyster Stuffing and Giblet Gravy. The "California Eatin" three-onion stuffing also sounds delicious. The Northeastern nutmeg ice cream would be the perfect way to end the big meal.

This month's print version of the magazine offers a Latino-inspired Thanksgiving menu (adobo Turkey, chipotle meatballs, cornbread and chorizo stuffing, sweet potato coconut puree, and apple pie with Mexican brown sugar), as well as a Mediterranean meal (braised artichokes, mushroom and farro pie, mache salad, parmesan-roasted butternut squash, cranberry sauce with dates and orange, and a pumpkin tart with anise-seed crust).

I've honestly no idea how authentic these menus might be for the various regions and peoples they claim to represent, but I love reading about all the different variations out there. I would welcome hearing about everyone's Thanksgiving traditions and must-haves, recipes, ideas, etc.

(Currently thankful for: wild sweet orange Tazo tea, incredible Mexican food and at Oyamel last night with a good friend who I hadn't seen in a long time, natural Greek yogurt with honey and granola for breakfast, multi-vitamins, freshly brewed coffee, good friends, an amazing family, my new job and colleagues, Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle on audiobook, the bright yellow leaves blanketing my neighborhood's sidewalks, and, of course, the Gourmet subscription renewal my sister gave me for my birthday).

Photo of caramel pie by Romulo Yanes, who does beautiful work for Gourmet and others.

Noodle Express

Tonight Jason and I met up with his old college roommate, Ming Ye, who happened to be in town for the weekend. After wandering around Chinatown for a bit, we happened upon Chinatown Express, whose crowded dining room we took to be a good sign. An elderly gentleman was making fresh noodles in the front window, threading the long tubular strands through his fingers and then stretching his hands apart in a tangled accordion of pasta. I suddenly had a hankering for noodle soup.

Despite its intriguing exterior, Chinatown Express doesn't offer a lot in the way of decor. Upon entering, we navigated a perilously narrow staircase to enter a small room, where we were seated at a plain round table, bathed in the harsh glow of neon lighting and a television set playing an unrecognizeable news station.

But no matter. The chicken noodle soup was restorative. Spicy and head-clearing with generous additions of Sriracha and hot chili oil, and utterly comforting in its familiarity, it was uncomplicated bliss from the first slurpy bite. Hot pork buns, shrimp dumplings with tangy scallion sauce, and a soothing cup of tea rounded out the delicious offerings.

It's easy to see why the Washingtonian named Chinatown Express a "no frills" favorite in their "Best of Chinatown" feature. For $5.95, you can get aforementioned noodles, either as soup or fried - lo mein style - with your choice of chicken, beef, seafood, or vegetables. In an expensive city where good Chinese food is hard to come by, I say that's a pretty great deal.

Good to know:
Chinatown Express is located at 746 6th Street, NW. By Metro, exit at Chinatown/Gallery Place Metro (Green, Yellow, or Red line), and exit on the north side of the Verizon Center. Walk east for one block on H Street until you get to 6th. Chinatown Express will be on the right-hand side near the corner of H and 6th.

Photo of Chinatown Express from The Backpack Boy's blog.

Cashion In

I've been looking forward to this weekend all month because my parents will be in town! They live in Chicago (a fantastic food city in its own right), so they only get to DC one or two times a year. For that reason, it's pretty special when they come to DC, and I like to take them out for at least one memorable meal while they're in town.

I gave careful consideration to my restaurant choice this time. My requirements were stiff. The restaurant had to be easily accessible from my apartment (for parental units unaccustomed to and potentially stressed out by zipping around on the Metro), quiet enough to have a real conversation, not so popular that it would be overwhelmingly crowded (sorry, Zaytinya, Oyamel, and the Jose Andres empire in general), with a selection of straightforward fare to satisfy my dad's meat-and-potatoes palate (sayonara Perry's and Sushi Taro), but at the same time, more nuanced than your prototypical Washington steakhouse (ahem), with a good wine list (something we can all agree on), and a restaurant unique to the DC area.

As it turns out, the perfect place exists right in my own neighborhood, in the form of none other than Cashion's Eat Place, the Adams Morgan neighborhood gem serving an eclectic menu of interesting, yet unpretentious American dishes. Despite its proximity to my apartment, I've never eaten there, but I walk by it constantly, and have always been intrigued by the retro neon-pink signage and warmly-hued interior.

Has anyone been? Any menu recommendations?

Autumn Baked Goodness

Something about the crisp autumn air makes me want to bake, bake, and bake some more. I'm tempted to order my own copy of Brooklyn's eponymous Baked. The book is a collection of the bakery's favorite recipes, like The Sweet and Salty Cake, the Peanut Butter Crispy Bar, the Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Loaf, and their famous Cheddar Chipotle Biscuits. Mmmmm.

You can order your copy here.

Photo from Baked by Tina Rupp.

Birthday dinner at Citronelle

For my birthday, Jason (the most amazing boyfriend in the world) took me out for an absolutely incredible meal, at DC's famed Citronelle. We decided to go all out, and get the 10-course tasting menu - the Promenade Gourmande - with wine pairings. It was a truly epic experience, and difficult to "review" in a single go, but I want to at least describe the highlights.

PROMENADE GOURMANDE

AMUSE BOUCHE
Egg surprise, escargot crumble, chicken “lollipop” Champagne Francois Billion with “Cuvee de Reserve”, Brut Grand Cru, Chardonnay

The egg surprise referred to the cup in which this dish was served, fashioned from an actual egg shell that had been cut in half. The egg shell was filled with a light-as-air cauliflower foam, silky cubes of salmon tartare, and scallion bits. Escargot crumble was a diminutive glass cup of escargot topped and baked with a buttery sauce and garlicky bread crumbs. The "lollipop" was a toothpick holding the most tender morsel of chicken I've ever tasted, breaded and delicately fried (and more densely flavorful than I knew poultry could be) perched in a tiny puddle of mustardy cream sauce.

VICHYSSOISE “2008”

Michel Richard's updated version of Vichyssoise, a classic French soup, traditionally made with cream, chicken stock, and pureed vegetables. Ours featured an elegant disk of creamy, Parmesan-flavored gelee (almost flan-like in texture), amidst a decadent chicken stock, topped with some kind of crispy chicken-flavored crumbs. The creamy savory deliciousness of that broth had me tilting the plate toward me in a rather inelegant attempt to coax every last drop onto my spoon.

MOSAIC
“Surf & turf” with Sancerre Domaine Roland Tissier 2007

This is, perhaps, the most visually stunning dish I've ever laid eyes on. A flat square-shaped plate is "tiled" with circles of various meat and fish, like tuna, salmon, scallop, beef carpaccio, etc., along with circles of roasted peppers, then drizzled with a basil olive oil and sprinkled with frisee and arugula. It was truly a feast for the eyes, and was every bit as tasty as it looks.

SABLEFISH

Broiled, saké-miso marinated with Riesling Grand Cru “Geisberg” Domaine Kientzler 2004

The simple flavors of this dish were a welcome palate-cleanser after the complexity of the Mosaic. The sweetness of the miso marinade didn't overwhelm the mild fish, and a side of tender baby vegetables provided a hint of bitterness that contrasted nicely with everything else. The Riesling was also quite refreshing at this point in the meal.

LOBSTER BURGER

With Puligny-Montrachet “Sous le Puits,” Premier Cru, Domaine Larue 2003

Tender, creamy chunks of lobster meat in a buttery bun, graced by a small circle of tomato confit (an upscale riff on ketchup). Served with a conical bowl of ethereally crisp potato chips.

SQUAB
Leg confit, foie gras-syrah sauce with Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot” Premier Cru, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2004

Any misgivings I'd had about eating squab were put to rest with this lovely dish. Unbelievably tender and moist, the squab was served with a sweet and tangy syrah sauce, and dotted with petite vegetable globes. Though it lacked the pizazz of the Mosaic or the Amuse Bouche, I think this dish was my favorite for its uncomplicated, earthy flavors.

SELECTION OF IMPORTED CHEESE

With Zinfandel, Turley Wine Cellars “California Old Vines”

My memories are not quite as crystalline at this point (remember, we were doing the menu with wine pairings!), but I do remember something sinfully creamy (I'm guessing it was something like a Brillat-Savarin), and some type of blue/gorgonzola.

STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL

A tiny glass cup of brightly-flavored strawberry gel, studded with chunks of strawberry

KIT CAT BAR

With Banyuls “Heylos,” Domaine Alain Reynaud 2002

Melted chocolate with hazelnut overtones encase crispy stacked layers of Corn Flakes, milk chocolate and peanut butter. As completely amazing as it sounds.

PETITS FOURS
A platter of small, fruit-inspired sweet cakes. See petits fours.